A Soulful Odyssey Through Arunachal’s Pomo Valley Trek

A Soulful Journey Through Arunachal’s Pomo Valley Trek

Introduction 

After years of hiking through the rocky trails of Ladakh and the misty hills of Uttarakhand, I felt a pull toward the unexplored Northeast India. In May 2025, I embarked on the Pomo Valley Trek in Arunachal Pradesh, a land of towering mountains, thundering waterfalls, and warm tribal cultures. 

This wasn’t just another hike—it was a heartfelt adventure that touched my soul. From the long drive across the Brahmaputra River to the quiet banks of the Dree River, every moment felt alive with wonder. Tucked away in the green Dibang Valley, this trek promised thrills, new friendships, and a chance to connect with nature and local life. Come along as I share this incredible journey, hoping it sparks your own desire to discover this hidden gem of India’s Northeast. 

The Journey to Base Camp

Our adventure kicked off in Bangalore with a flight to Dibrugarh, Assam, the starting point for Arunachal’s wild landscapes. From Dibrugarh, we drove across the Dhola-Sadiya Bridge, also known as Bhupen Hazarika Setu, named after a beloved Assamese singer. This 9.15-kilometer bridge, the longest river bridge in India, stretches over the mighty Brahmaputra. As we crossed, the river shimmered under the fading light, with distant hills cloaked in twilight, hinting at the mystery and promise of the journey ahead. Driving over this massive steel structure felt like stepping into a new world, where Arunachal’s untouched beauty was waiting just ahead.

The 4-5-hour drive from Dibrugarh to Roing was a treat for the eyes. The road twisted through thick forests, where tall trees formed a green canopy, and sunlight flickered through the leaves. We spotted bright orchids and swaying ferns, a glimpse of Arunachal’s rich plant life. Roing welcomed us with the cozy Linggi Palace guesthouse, where the staff’s warm smiles and hearty meals—made us feel right at home. After a restful night, we continued to Anini, a peaceful town nestled by the Dree River.

Our base camp at Dree Afra (Acheso) was a beautiful spot that set the tone for the trek. Tucked between rugged mountains, the camp sat on a grassy clearing by the river’s edge, where the water flowed clear and cold from the Himalayas. Simple tents were pitched under pine trees. Wildflowers dotted the ground, and the air carried the fresh scent of forest and river. At night, the sky exploded with stars, so bright they felt close enough to touch. Sitting by the riverbank, listening to the gentle rush of water and the rustle of leaves, we felt a deep calm, mixed with excitement for the days ahead. Dree Afra wasn’t just a camp—it was a haven that made us feel part of Arunachal’s wild heart.

Rafting on the Dree River

Rafting on the Dree River was a wild, heart-pounding start to our trek. The 3.5-level rapids, fed by icy Himalayan springs, rushed around us as we paddled through frothy waves. All around, green valleys and towering peaks created a stunning backdrop, like something out of a movie. 

Then, things got crazy—our raft slammed into a jagged rock, and two of us tumbled into the freezing water! Gasping in the cold, we floated for a couple of kilometres, laughing through our shivers as we took in the crystal-clear river and lush banks lined with trees. The water was so cold it took our breath away, but the thrill kept us grinning. Eventually, we reached calmer waters and climbed back onto the raft, our hearts racing with excitement. This wasn’t just rafting—it was a rollercoaster ride with nature, full of fear, fun, and Arunachal’s raw beauty cheering us on.

Mawu Falls in Dree Valley

Dree Valley, known as the valley of waterfalls, gave us one of its best: Mawu Falls. After a filling lunch at our Dree Afra camp, we hiked through green trails to reach this amazing sight. The falls crashed down a steep cliff, sending up a cool mist that drifted through the air. 

The sound was loud, almost overwhelming, but somehow calming, like nature’s own heartbeat. Tall trees, ferns, and bright orchids surrounded the falls, making it feel like a hidden paradise. Standing there, I felt small but at peace, soaking in the fresh air and the beauty of it all. 

The rocks around the falls were covered in moss, and the mist left tiny droplets on our faces. Mawu Falls showed us how powerful and untouched Arunachal’s landscapes are, a moment that felt like a gift from the mountains.

Mithun Encounter in Dibang Wildlife Sanctuary

As we neared Dibang Wildlife Sanctuary, we stopped in our tracks to watch a herd of Mithun, large animals loved by local tribes. These strong bovines, with shiny coats and big horns, grazed calmly in a meadow, looking right at home in the lush greenery. 

For the Mishmi community and other tribes, Mithuns are special—they’re signs of wealth and pride, used in trade and even as part of marriage traditions. Seeing them with the Himalayan peaks in the background felt like a perfect mix of nature and culture. They moved slowly, nibbling on grass, their presence peaceful yet powerful. This moment was a sneak peek into the deep traditions we’d learn about later, showing how closely Arunachal’s people and land are connected.

The Trekking Experience

The trek started at Pruni, the last place cars could reach in Dibang Wildlife Sanctuary. Our team of local guides was amazing, keeping us safe and sharing stories over four days and nights.

Unlike my usual hikes with sturdy boots, we wore gum boots here, which felt odd at first. But soon, they were lifesavers, gripping the muddy, slushy trails perfectly. The first day was supposed to be “flat and easy,” but it was anything but—a tough climb that pushed our legs and lungs. Still, every step was worth it, with views that took our breath away.

The trails were a mix of different stretches, each one unique.

Early on, we walked through thick, refreshing greenery—tall trees, ferns, and wildflowers everywhere, their colours so bright they felt unreal. The air was cool and crisp, filled with the earthy smell of the forest.

One stretch wound past a roaring waterfall, its water splashing onto the path, making the rocks slippery but adding a thrill. We stopped to splash our faces with the icy water, feeling alive and refreshed.

Further along, we hit patches of leftover melting snow from the higher peaks, soft and crunchy under our boots. The snow sparkled in the sunlight, a reminder of the Himalayas’ power even in late spring.

Some trails were steep and rocky, with bamboo bridges that swayed over rushing streams—crossing them was scary but fun, with everyone cheering each other on. Other parts were gentler, cutting through open meadows where the grass swayed in the breeze, and distant peaks loomed like silent giants.

The “craziness of the trek” came in moments like slipping in the slush, our gum boots squelching loudly, or dodging black flies near the river. Those little pests were annoying, but they couldn’t compete with the stunning views.

Campfire nights were the best part—our guides chopped fresh firewood, and we ate simple meals of rice and dal under the stars. The food tasted better out there, maybe because of the fresh air or the laughter we shared. 

While a true "cross" between garlic and onion isn't possible (they are distinct species), Arunachal Pradesh does have a variety of Allium species, including those that are used in a similar way to garlic and onion. We found them through out of trek.  

The greenery, waterfalls, and snowy patches made every day feel like a new adventure, showing off Arunachal’s wild, untouched beauty in a way I’ll never forget.

Grasslands of Mishmi Takins

Deep in Dibang Wildlife Sanctuary, we explored the grasslands where Mishmi Takins usually roam. These rare animals, like a mix of goats and antelopes with golden coats, are a symbol of Arunachal’s wild side.

They migrate to these meadows in July, so we missed seeing them alive, but our guides showed us a Takin skull, its curved horns and sturdy shape hinting at their strength. The grasslands stretched wide, a sea of green under the huge Himalayan sky, with snow-capped peaks in the distance. 

Walking through the soft grass, we felt the quiet power of this place, where nature rules untouched. Even without seeing the Takins, the vast meadows left us in awe of Arunachal’s beauty and balance.

The evening at Dree Afra camp was joyfully spent singing karaoke, reminiscing about the trek, and sharing endless laughter and cheer.

Cultural Immersion

The Pomo Valley Trek wasn’t just about hiking—it was a chance to dive into Arunachal’s rich traditions. At a homestay near Anini, we met Mr. Sipi Mihu, whose home was like a museum of tribal life. His long wooden house had a guest room lined with Mithun skulls and jawbones, each one a sign of pride and status.

Sipi shared stories of his grandfather, a brave village protector who fought off intruders with a Dao sword. The Dao, a traditional weapon of the Mishmi community, is more than a blade—it’s a symbol of honor, used in ceremonies and daily tasks like clearing jungle paths. Sipi’s family once made these swords, forging them in a blacksmith shop, but stopped after his son fell gravely ill. A dandai, a tribal priest who connects with spirits, advised closing the forge and sacrificing an animal to heal the boy. It worked, and the family never returned to blacksmithing, a choice they still respect years later.

Meals at Sipi’s homestay were a highlight. We ate tender bamboo shoots, picked fresh during the monsoon, with a crisp, earthy taste that paired perfectly with spicy local curries. The rice beer, made from fermented millet, was strong and slightly sweet, warming us up as we sat by the fire. These dishes came with stories of how tribes live close to the land, using what nature provides. We learned about local beliefs, where dandais perform rituals to keep spirits happy, tying people to the forests and rivers. Black flies buzzed near the river, a small nuisance compared to the warmth of Sipi’s hospitality. This experience—food, stories, and traditions—made the trek feel like a journey into Arunachal’s heart, far beyond just walking trails.

Kongo Homestay in Anini

Kongo Homestay in Anini was a cozy haven of Northeast hospitality. The long wooden house, with a corridor down one side, felt warm and welcoming. The family running the homestay treated us like old friends, serving up delicious meals by a crackling fire. We feasted on bamboo shoots, stir-fried with spices, and sipped rich rice beer that warmed us through the chilly nights. 

They shared bits of local life, like how families pass down traditions through food and storytelling. The homestay was clean and comfy, with soft blankets and a quiet view of the mountains. Sitting together, eating and chatting, we felt right at home, soaking in the simple joys of Arunachal’s culture and kindness.

During our evening walk, we paused to watch an intense game of high-quality soccer unfold on a challenging, slushy field.

Reflections

The Pomo Valley Trek was a life-changing adventure that mixed thrills, culture, and friendship. The gum boots, weird at first, became our best friends, keeping us steady on muddy trails. The rafting mishap—falling into the Dree River’s icy water—was scary but hilarious, teaching us to laugh through challenges. The bamboo bridges and roaring waterfalls showed nature’s wild side, both tough and beautiful. At Sipi’s homestay, stories of the Dao sword and the dandai’s rituals opened my eyes to a culture that lives close to the land and spirits. The taste of rice beer and crunchy bamboo shoots stayed with me, just like the sight of Mithun grazing and the vast grasslands where Takins roam.

What made this trek special was the people. Strangers turned into friends around campfires, swapping stories from big dreams to silly jokes. Our tribal guides, with their quiet know-how, showed us Arunachal’s soul.

This journey wasn’t just about hiking—it was about connecting with nature, learning from locals, and finding peace in the mountains. Arunachal’s green valleys, snowy patches, and warm smiles left a mark on my heart, calling me back to explore more of its wonders.

Culmination Celebration

We wrapped up our trek at AR-16 Cafe & Restro in Anini, a cozy spot with wooden walls and soft music. The staff’s warm hospitality matched the Northeast’s famous kindness, serving tasty local dishes. We laughed and clinked glasses, toasting to tough trails, renewed friends, and Arunachal’s magic. The cafe’s mix of modern comfort and tribal charm was the perfect way to end a journey that touched our hearts.

Conclusion

The Pomo Valley Trek is Arunachal’s gift to adventurers, with its roaring waterfalls, grazing Mithuns, and kind-hearted locals. From the Dhola-Sadiya Bridge to the misty Mawu Falls, from rice beer by the fire to stories of the Dao, this trip was full of wonder. Grab your gum boots, answer the call of Arunachal’s mountains, and let its beauty change you.

Practical Tips for Trekkers

• Permits: Indian citizens need an Inner Line Permit (ILP) through the Arunachal Pradesh government portal. Foreigners need a Protected Area Permit, which you can get via local authorities or tour operators.
• Best Time: October to April is best for clear skies and festivals like Ziro Music Festival. Our May trek was great but watch for rains and landslides; we got lucky with the rains, please check weather updates.
• Route: Fly to Dibrugarh (Assam) from cities like Bangalore or Delhi. Drive 4-5 hours to Roing, then 6-7 hours to Anini. The trek starts at Pruni in Dibang Wildlife Sanctuary, from Dree Afra (Acheso).
• Gear: Get gum boots in Anini or Roing for slushy trails. Pack warm layers (fleece, jackets) for cold nights (5,000-7,000 ft), a waterproof backpack, and insect repellent for black flies by rivers.
• Guides: Get local guides in Anini for safe trails and cultural stories. They’re a must in Dibang Wildlife Sanctuary’s remote areas.
• Stay: Kongo Homestay in Anini has great food and cozy rooms. Linggi Palace in Roing is perfect for stopovers. Book early through local contacts or tour operators.
• Connectivity: Mobile signals are weak in Dibang Valley; bring a satellite phone for emergencies or trust your guides’ local contacts.
• Health: Pack first-aid, hydration salts, and anti-allergy meds for fly bites. Spend a day in Anini to adjust to the altitude.